Lock when the deal is real.
Once you're under contract with an inspection-cleared house, the loss curve from a rate uptick beats the small upside of floating. Lock at acceptance unless you have a strong reason not to.
A rate lock is the lender promising you a rate for X days. It's a one-way door — you can't un-lock without paying. Here's the discipline: when to lock, when to float, what a float-down actually costs, and how to read your real lock window.
Once you're under contract with an inspection-cleared house, the loss curve from a rate uptick beats the small upside of floating. Lock at acceptance unless you have a strong reason not to.
Long lock periods cost more (the lender prices in time risk). If your closing is genuinely 45-60 days off, a short float can save BPS. But it requires watching.
Lender fee for a one-time float-down is typically 0.25–0.5% of loan. On $300K, that's $750–$1,500. Worth it if rates drop 0.25%+. Otherwise it's an option premium you don't need.
15 / 30 / 45 / 60-day locks have different prices. Match the window to your timeline. Asking for 45 when you'll close in 22 wastes basis points.
Lock at acceptance. Every 0.125% up = ~$25/mo on a $300K loan. Don't gamble.
Lock when comfortable. The cost of certainty is small; the cost of a surprise upward move is real.
Float strategically. Set a target with your LO ('lock me at 6.25% or by day 30, whichever first'). Many LOs will honor that.
60-day lock when you'll close in 22 = paying for time risk you don't need. Match the window.
Lenders quote retail. Always ask: 'What's the BPS cost to float down?' If it's >0.5%, walk to a better LO.
Lock past expiration = re-pricing at current rates. If your closing slips, your LO must extend (often a small fee) before the lock dies.
Nobody knows where rates go. Your timeline IS knowable. Build the strategy around what you can control.
Five minutes. We map your real timeline + risk tolerance and recommend a lock window — not a salesperson's default.